Guest Chef Takeover: Ursula Ferrigno on her new cookbook 'Dolci Italiani'
The Italians, as a nation, have a very sweet tooth, and sweet things are very much part of daily life. This passion is said to have been inspired by the seafaring and trading Venetians, who were among the first in Europe to refine and trade in sugar. For my class on 17th June, I’ll be sharing some of my favourite sweet recipes from my upcoming book, Dolci Italiani.
Up until about the 12th century, honey and fruit were the only sweeteners in the West. It is not clear who first discovered the properties of sugar cane, but the Arabs certainly knew how to refine it, and this ensuing ‘white gold’ was introduced to Europe, via soldiers returning from the 11th-century Crusades. The Venetians then developed sugar-refining factories in Tyre, in modern-day Lebanon, before moving them to the island of Cyprus, a Venetian possession for a time.
The Arabs were also important in other sweet aspects of Italian cuisine. They ruled Sicily for roughly 200 years. Apart from sugar, they introduced many trees, fruits and nuts – chiefly pistachios, figs and citrus fruit – and these are hugely important in many Italian cakes, pastries, biscuits/cookies and puddings. They were also responsible for the ice creams for which Italy is now so renowned. The story goes that they flavoured snow from Mount Etna with fruit juices and syrups, thus inventing gelati and sorbetti.
So a liking for sweet flavours has long existed in the Italian palate. And that, married with the Italians’ love of celebrating, means that sweet things – cakes, pastries, biscuits – are intuitively associated with occasions such as birthdays, christenings, weddings, saints’ days and religious festivals such as Christmas and Easter. But it actually goes further than that: the Italians love sweet things so much that they indulge almost on a daily basis – a quick small pastry with a coffee for breakfast, or a slice of something delicious mid-morning or afternoon. After the riposo (the Italian siesta) is a popular time for having something sweet: this gives a burst of energy for the rest of the day (so they say!). Visiting friends and family conjures up yet another excuse: I wouldn’t dream of popping in to see neighbours or friends without taking with me a box or bag of homemade biscuits.
And of course the displays in Italian pasticcerie are always so enticing, it is difficult to pass without staring and indulging! In October last year, when I finished teaching in Puglia, some students and I shared some pasticciotti in a tiny bakery in Specchia: a coffee, pastry and glass of iced water, all served with such pride.
Most Italians buy tarts from pasticcerie on a regular basis. They might choose a slice to go with their morning espresso, or to have as an afternoon snack, or merenda. Or they might choose a whole tart, which can be served as a special-occasion dessert – Crostata ai frutti di bosco (Very Berry Tart) ensures that we truly enjoy the berry season!
My Pizza Dolce is a really delicious take on pizza. My grandmother used to make it as a merenda for after our siesta, and we accompanied it with a strong espresso – yes, even as children! My Nonna would give it to us with cream and we felt incredibly grown up. The bread base is topped with a creamy layer and then with fresh fruit.
Italy is famed and loved throughout the world for her gelati or ice creams. The Italians appreciate them just as much, especially during their steamy summers, when the cold freshness of a granita, sorbetto or semifreddo offers some relief from the relentless heat.
Zabaglione gelato is the reason why I’m married. I was cooking at a dinner party for my sister, where my husband was in attendance. He fell in love with this ice cream, and me!
I first enjoyed Amaretti Mombaruzzo as a shop-bought cookie, then had to find out more about them and learn how to make them myself as they were so delicious. They are from the Piedmont region in Italy and are absolutely delicious.
I am proud of all these recipes and can’t wait to share them with you!
- Ursula Ferrigno
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Celebrate Ursula's Dolci Italiani cookbook launch where she'll demo some of her most treasured recipes, answer your questions and give tips and tricks for mastering baking, and of course sign your copy. Book here > Tuesday 17th June - 6.30pm
Book credit: Dolci Italiani by Ursula Ferrigno, published by Ryland Peters & Small (£22) Photography by Clare Winfield © Ryland Peters & Small.