In the Kitchen with: Dina Begum
Ahead of her upcoming summer Bangladeshi Masterclass in August, author, food/travel writer and leading voice in Bangladeshi food, Dina Begum, shares her inspirations behind her cooking, busts some common misconceptions around the cuisine and tells us what skills and equipment she couldn't be without....
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What motivated you to pursue a career in cooking, and how did your journey lead you to start writing cookbooks?
I grew up in a very foodie family with amazing cooks; my late father grew vegetables which influenced how I cook and the importance of fresh, seasonal produce. I also love research and writing. So I combined two of my favourite things to preserve and promote the diverse and delicious cuisine and food culture of Bangladesh. I began writing recipes when I was a teen, and later started a food blog - which led to my first cookbook deal.
Who has been your biggest inspiration or influence in your cooking journey?
My grandmother and mother. My late grandmother was an exceptional cook and host and I grew up sitting beside her during school holidays as she cooked and shared treats with me. My mother learned from my grandmother and is also an amazing cook. I grew up watching them cook, then learning from them.
Could you share a specific dish that holds a special place in your heart?
My mother’s handesh - fried rice flour and date molasses cakes and also my late grandmother’s coconut fudge. They always remind me of festivities and family gatherings on Eid.
Bangladeshi cuisine is rich and diverse. Can you share some insights into your favourite ingredients, and how they influence your cooking?
My favourite ingredients include mustard oil - rich, pungent and spicy, it can be likened to wasabi. Great as an ad-in to bhortas (mashes of usually vegetables). It has a high smoking point so it’s delicious for frying fish and vegetables in. It’s a pantry staple and I can't live without it. Equally important is panch phoron - Bengali five spice, an aromatic blend of fennel, mustard, fenugreek, cumin and mustard seeds. A pinch can transform a simple dish.
How do you stay inspired and creative with your cooking, for example travel, eating out, social media?
I love travelling as much as I love food. Whether at home in London or abroad I love to discover new dishes, cuisines and ingredients. If I fall in love with something while on my travels I will always seek out ingredients and re-create it at home.
Do you have a signature dish or favourite go-to recipe to cook at home?
I would say aloo bhorta - the simplest yet most satisfying of Bangladeshi dishes. Mashed potatoes mixed with onions, smoky fried chillies, coriander and a good glug of mustard oil. Utter comfort food eaten with steaming hot rice.
In your experience, what are some common misconceptions people have about Bangladeshi cuisine, and how do you help them understand it better when you teach?
People usually assume it’s the same as Indian food - which is far from the truth! Of course there are some shared dishes such as biryanis and dals, however cooking methods and flavour profiles vary. I love to talk about the different ingredients we use and techniques which influence the final dish. Also local produce is a huge factor. For example the bittersweet shatkora citrus is native to the Sylhet region in Bangladesh and used to create specific dishes.
What are some fundamental skills you believe every home cook should master?
Knife skills, different cooking techniques and learning how to prepare fresh ingredients such as vegetables, poultry and fish.
What would you say are your top 5 essential pieces of equipment that every home cook should have in their kitchen you can't live without, and why?
- Spice grinder - for dry spices blends and pastes
- A good chef’s knife - makes prep easy
- Cast iron tawa (flat pan) - great for flatbreads
- Stainless steel saucepans - best for curries
- Korai or Wok - for deep frying pakoras